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Winner of the "Reader's
Choice Award - Best BBQ"
Verde Independent - Kudos 2007
Winner of the "Reader's
Choice Award - Best BBQ"
Verde Independent - Kudos - 2006
Winner
of the 2006 Judge's Choice Award at the
Cottonwood
Rhythm & Ribs Festival
Cheap
Eats: Hog Wild
This Tinley Park barbecue joint does pork proud
By
William Rice
When it comes to barbecue, there
is a sparsely populated pantheon of eating places scattered
across the country that have created truly distinctive or
definitive renditions of barbecue classics.
If Hog Wild is not a candidate for such lofty status, it does
offer something that many fast-food restaurants do not: generous
portions of good-quality food cooked and served with a cheerful
attitude.
Opened a year and a half ago by Beth and George Postulka and
their daughter Dawn and son-in-law, Mike West, the restaurant
is located in a small strip of stores at the corner of Oak
Park Avenue and 167th Street.
In the barbecue tradition, Hog Wild is short on creature comforts
and isn't much to look at. It's a narrow storefront divided
by a counter where orders are taken. The cooking is done amidst
grills and fryers in the rear, while customers who stay to
dine (many of them depart with their purchases) can choose
among half-a-dozen booth-like tables. Pig posters and pig
statuary dominate the decor.
Of the 20 items on the menu, almost half are pork preparations.
Many customers never get past the first offering, though—a
wonderfully tender marinated pork chop (13 to 16 ounces) prepared
in the "traditional" fashion (with a mildly spicy
dry rub) or barbecue style. For $6.22 you are served the chop
(or two chops for an additional $3.52), fried or oven-browned
potatoes and a side dish. I recommend the slightly sweet and
tangy baked beans, although the sweet and slightly tangy,
finely chopped coleslaw is freshly made and tasty too.
Pork tenderloin ($7.20) is cooked by either of the same two
methods as the chops. Smoking is done on premise and the wood
is hickory.
The menu also lists three pork sandwiches: the same splendid
chop or tenderloin (each $5.29) and a good pulled-pork preparation
($5) served on a fluffy bun. The barbecue sauce is Sweet Baby
Ray's, a concoction from Schiller Park that offers well balanced
sweet heat and a touch of citrus.
This sauce also is used to glaze meaty smoked ribs ($14.50
for a full slab, $8.50 for a half-slab and $5.50 for a quarter
slab). The glaze is somewhat gloppy. The boneless rib sandwich
($5.29) is an option for neatniks who want to keep their hands
sauce-free.
For those unwilling to pig out, Hog Wild also serves jumbo
fried shrimp by the pound ($12.99) or an eight-piece shrimp
dinner with fries, coleslaw, garlic bread and sauce ($6.70).
Nothing exceptional here.
From three chicken sandwiches (each $5.29), I chose the Philly.
Like the pork, the generous chicken breast meat filling was
moist and tender. It was topped with sauteed onions, a ring
of green bell pepper and mayo instead of the lavalike cheese
topping on a classic Philly steak sandwich. Good, but even
better when doctored with some barbecue sauce. The other chicken
sandwich options are char-grilled and Big Cajun.
Beverages are included in combo orders or sold separately
for $1.25. No alcoholic beverages are sold. Don't look for
dessert, either.
What you get daily, though, is good food and the presence
of the owners, hard-working cottage industry entrepreneurs
who seem to think a "chain" is something you put
across the back door of your restaurant when you lock up at
night. They cater parties and can stage a pig roast in your
back yard too.
Rice
is the Chicago Tribune food and wine columnist.
Published July 28, 2000 |
